Bluff Utah,
It’s not Moab.
In attempt to do something ‘different’ in the middle of
November, we went south to Bluff. We are
somewhat limited with ‘different’ in Utah, with only Moab and St George on the
busy end, Fruita and Kanab in the obscure middle and Cisco and Grafton on the
quiet side. With only 200 people in Bluff,
half of them Navajo, no place to eat or drink mid-week and a main street so
empty that you could shoot a man, and no one would see, it is the essence of catatonic
chill.
We arrived in Bluff under a spectacular purple setting sun
and obscured rising Beaver Moon and quickly found our cabin since there was
only one choice on Main Street. The
nights are 16 hours long this time of year and we couldn’t camp, read or play
rummy for that long in our van so we treated ourselves to the lap of luxury in a
comfortably complete pine box cabin with coffee, heat and a TV. We are being kind to ourselves lately since
our ‘Wealth Manager’ told us to spend more money, but we are cautious because we
are Park City rich with nothing but house and you can’t eat equity.
There are two resort hotels, one in East Bluff and one in
West Bluff, and like America there was little middle class in between. The parenthetical Pueblo type resorts on
either end of town wouldn’t take dogs, and we don’t go anywhere without Eva, so
we settled for something simple but new, compact and clean. Centrally located across the street from the
LDS Fort Bluff theme park and next to the river bike path entrance we were Downtown-Charlie
Brown.
Surrounded by BLM land, Grand Staircase and Bears Ears
National Monuments, there are purportedly over 100,000 Native American ruins
and rock art installations in this area including Grand Gulch and the San Juan
River, which was the Park Avenue for the Ancient Ones. With the southern end of the prosaic Coxcomb
dominating the landscape from Kanab to Lake Powell, there is a Native site of
some sort up every canyon which lends itself to endless bike and hike
adventures. This feature may be an
extension of the porno Cockscomb in Arizona because these formations sometimes
dip underground and pop up in the strangest of places, if you look at it right,
with the strangest of names, like Mollie’s Nipple, Brigham’s Unit or Cave 7.
The point is that there is infinite geography to explore down
there and a lifetime to do it. In one
canyon, there was an extravagant royal apartment complex perfectly intact in
the middle of a 500 foot cliff and a Michelangelo museum quality petroglyph of
Wilt Chamberlin, the Alta insignia and an upside-down chairlift going
backwards, peppered by a few bullet holes.
The next canyon had several ground level rooms and granaries for the
secure or lazy middle-class serfs and a couple of amateur handprints, spirals
and chickens on the wall. None of these are
located on any map or indicated with any BLM signs, since they are doing more
with less these days and want to protect these sights from rampant tourism and
unethical collectors.
Some nice Nomad campers, who live in the canyons but move
every 14 days, gave us the lay of the land and some good guidance that became
confused or forgotten immediately but pointed us in the right direction. From there on it was easy to make it up as we
went along and find cool stuff. My wife
would explore several canyons each day while I would rest and relax with the
dog after one or two ruins, in the cool van or cabin, taking notes and naps or
reading books and maps in the solace that I had nothing to prove. We seldom encountered any other hikers either
in the cool of the morning or low winter sun of the afternoon. I suspect I gets as hot as Moab here but
there is no need for reservations or any effort to beat the rush or high
season.
Bluff does not get a lot of traffic or business, and they
don’t seem to care. With a Chamber of
Commerce or marketing manager they could turn this place into another red rock
Disney land of conspicuous consumption, but I get the sense that they don’t
want to. There is an attempt at a river
trail from town through the sandy bosque cottonwoods to the river raft boat
launch area, but it is only rough graded and there is a large portion that fell
off into the river. While we were there
they held a Marathon from Blanding that had more volunteers than runners and
more cones than competitors, but they were nice people with free bananas and
80’s music there all day.
We were so enchanted that we stayed an extra day into the
weekend and a killer Coffee house, Navajo breakfast and Pork House rib place opened
mostly for the locals. They were mostly
friendly folks except for some multigenerational natives that have perfected
the one-word answer that almost sounds like another question. None-the-less we had fun playing in the
country and exploring the towns funky sandstone castles and modern palaces,
with our dog, undeterred and undisturbed by other thrill seekers adrenaline
hounds and athletic adventurists. Go
there soon, before it becomes another Moab.











