My
stomach rose into my throat as the Bell helicopter dropped over the lower rim
of the inner canyon, into the most intimate depths of the Grand Canyon. As the river, our tiny boat and crew came
into view, I heard the words of its first explorer, John Wesley Powell, who
described the Grand Canyon as “the great unknown” when he entered it on August
12, 1869 from the relative gentle beauty, soft rock and smooth water of Glen
and Marble Canyons. The cool ribbon of
green flowed quietly, agelessly through the inferno of the hard, ancient lava
rock that would be my home for the next three days.

I
had always thought that when I finally floated the Grand it would be an epic
three week private trip in a slow dory with a bunch of granola munching
enviro-dudes and hippie-chicks. It would
take that long, I figured, to really get the feel of the canyon, to get the
sand under your skin, to get naked and dance like crazed Anasazi around
driftwood fires. I changed my mind when
my Long Island friends Wild Bill, Jai Johnny, Les is More, Phil the Thrill and
Jumpin Julie Westerman invited me on a spur-of the moment, three day, totally
indulgent, family reunion glamping trip down the lower canyon, complete with
planes, helicopters, jet boats and J-rigs.
How bad could it be?
I
had been on dozens of private river trips around the world and it would be good
to consider and contrast the alternatives. My wife and I took a trip down the Grand for our Honeymoon and it was 120 degrees. It didn't get below 100 at night. It was the 'don't touch me honeymoon'. At night we would soak our towels in he river and drape them over us aw we slept on our bags. We did this every few hours. It was too hot for bugs. This time they said I could come for free if I told stories about water, the
river. the politics and personalities of the Grand Canyon. I was still wrapped tightly in a sling from a
recent shoulder repair but I figured if John Wesley could hang on with one arm,
so could I. Besides, I’ll try anything
three times. Bad idea, I had to have the surgery again then years later but it was worth it,
We
had spent several decadent days in plush accommodations in Vegas, hanging pool
side, sipping umbrella drinks, playing craps and betting on men who bite. Las Vegas, where you can be anyone you want,
is the sad metaphor for America.
Conspicuous consumption, more testosterone than taste and more dollars
than sense. Where else could you find
the Statue of Liberty next to a great pyramid, across the street from a
medieval castle, complete with fountains, rivers, golf courses, lawns and laser
lights - all sprouting comfortably from Americas most inhospitable
desserts. When we flew from town to the
outer canyon edge, early in the morning brilliant heat, the city was humming,
the fountains were flowing and the lights were still on.After
a shady lunch and a brief introduction to our guides, fellow passengers and
general rafting edicate, we hit the river.
Fifteen people and 1100 tons of provisions packed on to a 40 foot J boat
left little room for or reclining or napping.
Everyone nervously jostled for their comfort zone as we approached the
first rapid. Wild Bill, front and center
on the pontoon, Auntie Mo with Pistol Pete in the “chicken coop” towards the
back, and me somewhere in-between. With
the 40 horse power motor cavitating, we center punched the 5 foot standing
waves of a No Name Rapid without hesitation, without scouting, without a care
in the world. We came out totally
drenched, cooled by the frigid water, and washed clean of any concerns we had
when we entered the canyon. The small
group of family and friends discovered the instant bond of shared experiences,
adventures and of facing your fears together.
The quite, uncomfortable group instantly became boisterous, bumptious
and eventually bacchanalian. Animated
conversations and detailed, play-by-play rapid survival stories unraveled and a
spirited exuberance set the tone for the rest of the day.
The
originally subdued guides, emotionally and physically spent from the first 6
days of their tour from Lees Ferry with another group, started to open up to
the guests, recharged with the fresh perspectives of the new trip. Travis was the fun loving but tortured
wanderer, Jed - the stress free, low key yet loquacious nature-boy interpreter,
and Julie - the volunteer swamper offering the mature, calming, mother nature,
feminine influence. They worked
extremely hard and ran a tight ship for Western River Adventures yet the trip
appeared seamless, effortless and timeless for the clients. The tremendous amount of experience,
preparation, logistics, physical and mental stamina was barely apparent during
entire voyage. The endless shuttle
miles, the marathon shopping, sun-baked packing and unpacking, the years of
experience to ensure that you had the right tool, the right Band-Aid, or enough
ice, was all but invisible to us on our casual, first class river float. First one up, last one down, a boatman’s
chores are never done.

We
stopped at a side canyon and hiked up to some petroglyphs, complete with
stories of The Ancient Ones, peyote and aliens. Then we decided to make
camp. After a quick fire line to unpack
the boat we were left on our own to pick our spots and do our own personal
nesting. People wandered aimlessly in
the last rays of direct sun, nervously debating between privacy and the
security of the group. I took a nap by
the river. The resulting tight cluster
of cots revealed the close group continuity and the small comfort zone that
comes with the first night out. We tried
out the open air lavatory, took baths, made cocktails, sang songs, had dinner
and reluctantly went to bed, some for the first time under the endless desert
stars. Looking up at the massive, multi
level canyon walls, offset by the
firmament, I remembered that Powell had called the canyon, “a stairway from
gloom to heaven”
In
the morning I awoke early and hiked to a ledge overlooking the river and the
camp. From my perch the hydraulics of
the river and the canyon became evident.
The side canyon had spewed a tremendous amount of rock and debris during
countless flash flood events, creating a large alluvial fan that extended
halfway into the river channel and made our perfect beach campsite. The alluvial fan also created a small rapid
by filling the channel with debris, creating a calming backwater effect
upstream and a constricted, steepened channel downstream. The river poured over the elevated rock
control section like calm, deep water pours over a water fall. At
the constriction of the river the water depth got thinner and the velocity
faster as the profile approached “critical” - as hydrologists call it. The water flowed through the rapid waves very
thin and very fast in a “super-critical” state and at the end of the rough
steepened constricted section, the river flattened and returned to a slower and
deeper, more energy efficient flow regime called subcritical flow. This trans-critical sequence is called a
“hydraulic jump” where the water surface exits the rapid actually higher than
the middle of the rapid, allowing it to flow back upstream along the side of
the rapid creating a shear flow zone and the
backwater eddy. The water then
returned to the rapid again as the lateral flow that is so tricky for kayakers
and canoeists. The fast moving, hungry water of the rapid can carry more
sediment as it backcuts into the deposition from the side canyon, but drops it
quickly after it slows down in the eddy creating beaches and point bars. This
particular eddy swirled behind the shelter of the alluvial fan that served as
our camp and created a beautiful bay of deep, relatively calm water. Other famous big rapids on the river were
formed this way: Lava Rapid by a lava flow into the river, Crystal Rapid and
Separation Rapid by two large side washes entering the river at the same
spot. I returned to camp, after this
personal revelation, but could find no one who shared my hydraulic
fascination. We all appreciate the river
for something different. Therein lies
the problem.
When
the others awoke we had a magnificent leisurely breakfast of bacon, eggs,
coffee and cake. A quick pack, a long
joke-du-jour by Jed and we were back on the river. It was a spectacularly hot day, with a strong
dry upstream wind and a clear blue sky that made the canyon colors jump out at
you like from a cheap post card.
Everyone was very animated even before we crashed the first rapid. Having survived the cycle of one full day had
made us seasoned river rats and happy campers.
People scampered around the raft, assuming different positions for the
ice cold rapid runs and hot interim drying cycles. We
stopped numerous times to explore side canyons, pictographs, streams,
waterfalls, cliffs, springs and to take shade, lunch and pee breaks. We were
continually challenged to push our personal envelopes by taking higher cliff
dives, rougher rapid swims, more technical waterfall climbs and hikes further
and further away from the mother river.
The experience was liberating, the scenery indescribable. Powell said that it was, “one thousand
Niagaras, one thousand Yosemites”.
The Natives say that you never see the same river twice but the river we were
seeing was a far different river than the one John Wesley Powell saw for the
first time more than 100 years ago. With
the installation of Glen Canyon dam and the ignominiously named Lake Powell,
the river has been tamed, harnessed and controlled. Without the dam, the river would be flowing
at almost 120,000 cubic feet per second (cfs) because of the healthy winter
snow pack still melting in the Colorado Rockies, the Wind River range of
Wyoming and the Uinta mountains of Utah.
Even with some extra flood control releases at the dam, the current
river was flowing at a nominal 27,000 cfs. The river would, historically, be blood red
with sediment and close to 60 degrees, but now, 200 miles below the dam, it was
still flowing emerald green, hungry for sediment and barely 49 degrees. Why drown a canyon to tame a river we asked;
for fountains and light shows in the mid day Mojave heat of Vegas, to grow rice
in the Imperial valley or irrigate cow pastures at 7500 feet in northern Utah? The token Bureau of Reclamation flushing
flows of 45,000 cfs released for one week last year have helped scour the
channel and rebuild some beaches but it is apparent that to mimic the natural
system they will have to release more sediment filled, warm water for a longer
period of time to match the natural range of variability. It’s at least a philosophical step in the
right direction towards considering the rivers ecology as well as its
economics.
The
day unfolded into and endless series of rapids and rocks, sun, sky and
spray. One of the guides asked me where
I lived and what I did for a living and for a fleeting moment I forgot. We assumed the timeless rhythm of the river,
deep-sixing our wrist watches and looking for a place to camp only when the sun
slid behind the edge of the canyon. We
eddied out to a slim beach and ran to find the best reclusive camp site. After some minimal nesting we returned to the
boat to get out of the blowing sand and to get closer to the beer. We
had several cases on ice and we were not planning on packing any of it out of
the canyon. The guides bathed and dressed in their best black tie outfits and
prepared another feast of steak and trout, while we watched helplessly. At this
point in his journey Powell and his men had lost most of their food, clothes,
blankets and hats but still maintained a lyrical quality in their journals and
their appreciation of this awesome spectacle. Nothing mattered more than the
rolling of the river and the changing colors of the canyon walls.
After
countless beers we shuffled to our cots to tie our traditional, last night,
togas and prepare for dinner. The
canyon wasn’t the only thing glowing this night and we floated above the
shifting sand, smiling to ourselves. We
came back styling, to a table full of champagne and a paparazzi of cameras for
every conceivable group shot combination .
Dinner was superb, both the cooking and the company. Dusk languished into night and the Milky Way
rolled into the northern sky amidst shooting stars and satellites. Travis broke out his guitar and someone added
an imperceptible bottom rhythm with a harmonica. Generations were united during a eclectic
sing along that ranged from Axle Rose to Kum-by-ya. Powell said that the Grand Canyon is “a land
of song” but I’m not sure this is what he meant. Eventually, one by one, the crowd retired to
their cots, to contemplate the night on their own terms.
They
tell me that the rock formations of the Grand Canyon, some as old as 3 billion
years, were pushed up 50 million years ago and the canyon was cut in a paltry 6
million years. In geological times there
could have been hundreds of grand canyons.
They say there are distinctive rock layers missing in places and parts
of the river used to flow the other way.
You can not travel this canyon without thinking of the greatness of God,
and the insignificance of man, but you also can not forget about the huge power
dam above you and the bigger, controlling one below. There have been several plans for dams in the
canyons, the last as recently as Ronald Regan.
Congress has passed a law that forbids dams in the Grand Canyon, until
they pass another law. Only God can make
such a place for the ages but only man can muck it up in a matter of years.
Sleep
comes easy in the canyon on the comfortable cots, under a light sheet at first
and into the sleeping bag by morning. I
missed the first light of the third and last day but heard the blowing of the
conch shell to signal that cowboy coffee was ready. Another great breakfast, a quick pack, a long
joke contest and we are on the river before the sun. We are into the backwater of lake Mead
already, flat but flowing in this incredible canyon. We float over the submerged Separation Rapid
where several members of Powell’s first crew abandoned the main group, and
walked away to their death, only 100 yards from the end of the last bad
rapid. The morning, for our group, is an easy scenic motor until we meet our jet
boat that will wisk us across 50 miles of slackwater and the upper, ugly
portions of the lake. When Powell went
by here he passed a family of naked Indians, the man wearing only a hat, the
woman only a necklace. When he reached
the eventual pullout at the confluence with the Virgin river there were surprised
Mormons fishing for their bodies with Seine nets.
We
say heartfelt thanks and goodbye to our mentors who will spend the next day
motoring, unpacking, packing, cleaning, driving, unpacking and packing for the
next trip. Our short time on the river
has been a revelation and we are momentarily jealous that they get to stay on
the river all summer. We promise to
write and keep in touch but we know its a lie.
We go back to our jobs, our wives and our lives but we won’t forget the Colorado
River, the Grand Canyon and who we were, for a few short days, when we were
there. The
commercial river experience was not that different from the private ones I had
been on. It was a lot less work and
worry but the group bonding experience was strong and real. The ‘sense of place’ feeling came on quick
and strong since we were not so distracted with logistics and tasks, packing
and un packing, rapid performance anxiety and fear of the unknown. Our appreciation of the Canyon was amazingly
rapid, almost like a microwave version of a slow baked river trip, but it was
real and valuable. Don’t get me wrong, a
three week trip is worth every minute of time, toil and tribulation but for
those who don’t have the time, temper or wherewithal for the long run, the
short survey trip is a valuable experience.
The more varied people who can capture even a small part of this
wilderness experience, the more people will ‘get it’ that we have to preserve
these magnificent places and experiences for generations to come.

A
boat, a bus and another plane ride, over the flat blue lake, looking like a
beard on a beauty queen in it’s Mojave wasteland. We fly over the dam that sits like a plug in
a puddle. Hoover Dam tamed the lower river
in the 1930s and created the relatively sterile looking Lake Mead without much
opposition or loss of unique beauty. It
was, and still is, an Art Deco engineering marvel that set the stage for
development of the West. Power
generation revenue from this cash register dam was enough to fund most of the
Bureaus subsidized water development projects in the forties, fifties and
sixties and is still going strong. The lower canyon is stark and dark with lava
flows and ancient silt and sand stones in a Mojave vegetation complex full of
Barrel cactus and Fire Sticks.
Glen
Canyon Dam was built in the 60s as a trade off with environmentalists for not
building a dam in Dinosaur Monument. The
sole purpose of Glen Canyon Dam is to give the upper states water use
flexibility and guarantee a ten year water supply to the lower basin
states. The 500 million dollar per year
power generation revenue is just icing on the cake. David Brower, then president of the Sierra
Club, made the deal with the Bureau of Reclamation before he and the
environmental movement knew that Glen Canyon was an irreplaceable national
treasure. The upper canyon was shady, lush and airy with vertical faces of
polished red sandstones and side canyons as thin as a man or as cavernous as a
cathedral. As
a regretful older man, Brower, along with the Sierra Club and ex Bureau chief
Dan Beard were proposing the removal of the dam because of the waste of water
from infiltration and evaporation - enough annually for the city of Chicago,
and the lack of a real need for the storage.
He fought the power companies, the water users and more than 3 million
recreationists that enjoy Lake Powell annually.
To Brower, flooding Glen Canyon for recreation was like flooding the
Sistine Chapel to get a closer look at the ceiling. Perhaps the proposal was the last desperate
act of a regretful eco-warrior, or perhaps it is an extreme bargaining position
for better environmental operation of the dams or perhaps it is an idea so
outrageous that it might be worth reconsidering. We
flew back to Vegas, over what is left of the lower Colorado river, then over
the Pyramid and the Statue of Liberty, a Circus, a Castles and the Space
Needle. The lights, air conditioners,
fountains and sprinklers were still on, but the old river wasn’t.